Post by dohcterek on Mar 26, 2008 23:43:33 GMT -5
WARNING: IT IS ILLEGAL TO ROLL BACK YOUR ODOMETER FOR ANY REASON UNLESS YOU ARE CERTIFIED TO DO SO
TEAM908 ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILTY FOR IT'S MEMBER'S ACTIONS
so i got my CRV gauge cluster installed this past weekend and i sold my Si cluster. But now i had a spare cluster from an automatic EX that i had been using temporarily.. i had the great idea of doing a Spoon Sports themed color change to the face plates, needles, and lettering but i soon got preoccupied with the following activity:
1. first i removed the clear plastic screen. no biggie, it snaps on and off.
2. next i removed the black plastic shroud around the cluster face. no biggie, it too snaps on and off.
3. then i removed the black plastic bezel on the face of the cluster by pulling it towards me gently. it snaped right off.
4. next i carefully removed the tachometer and Speedometer needles by prying them towards me with 2 small flathead screwdrivers. they poped right off, no probs. (DO NOT SPIN THE NEEDLES AROUND, DUHHH). i didnt need to remove the rpm needle, but at the time i didnt know where i was going with this destructive dissassembly.
5. next i removed the face plates from the tach and speedo. 2 small philips head screws hold them in place.
you can now see the functionality of the odometer. i used engine terms to describe the specific parts that they resembled. the "camshaft" is a long rod with many knuckles, or "lobes" if you will, that rotates in a sequence starting from the right side. the "crank pulley" is a gear like piece, shaped like the paddle wheel of a 17th century steam ferry (i know im so creative), that drives the "camshaft" and also the trip odometer indirectly. if you run your finger up or down on this "crank pulley" you can slowly adjust the reading on the odometer 1 mile at a time. one full rotation of the "crank pulley" will add or subtract one mile from the odometer. no, you cannot manually turn the numbered odometer gears, they are locked into place by the "camshaft"; it would be like trying to turnover your engine by putting hydraulic pressure in your belt driven powersteering pump. this brings me to my SUPER AMAZING BILLY-SHOULD-WIN-THE-INGALLS-TORQUE-DAMPER-RAFFLE-AUTOMATICALLY DISCOVERY OF THE DECADE! you can pry the "camshaft" away from the odometer gears to unlock them from their current position . ok so now that youre bursting with joy ill continue to say that the adjustment is a very fine tuning delicate procedure of correctly aligning the "camshaft lobes" with the correct teeth between the odometer gears . GENTLY pry the metal end of the left side of the "camshaft" away from its seat until the lobes are no longer touching the gear teeth (i recommend only do one side of the "camshaft" at a time so that you dont damage it or accidently pop it completely out of place). the numbered gears will now spin freely in place and you can set them at any desired position. when you have chosen your target mileage, with one hand holding the gears in line with each other, gently press the "camshaft" back into its seat making sure the "lobes" interlock with the gear teeth. this may take a couple tries so that the numbers are perfectly level with each other AND facing directly forward and not tilted up or down, as there are many teeth on the gears to choose from. once the target mileage has been set reassembly of the gauge cluster is opposite that of dissassembly.
PLEASE PERFORM THIS ADJUSTMENT AT YOUR OWN RISK!
i will be happy to answer any questions if you PM me, but i am not responsible if you break your cluster. if you want me to adjust your cluster for you, PM me and we can possibly work something out. FYI, odometer "roll back" is illegal in most (if not all) states.
TEAM908 ASSUMES NO RESPONSIBILTY FOR IT'S MEMBER'S ACTIONS
so i got my CRV gauge cluster installed this past weekend and i sold my Si cluster. But now i had a spare cluster from an automatic EX that i had been using temporarily.. i had the great idea of doing a Spoon Sports themed color change to the face plates, needles, and lettering but i soon got preoccupied with the following activity:
1. first i removed the clear plastic screen. no biggie, it snaps on and off.
2. next i removed the black plastic shroud around the cluster face. no biggie, it too snaps on and off.
3. then i removed the black plastic bezel on the face of the cluster by pulling it towards me gently. it snaped right off.
4. next i carefully removed the tachometer and Speedometer needles by prying them towards me with 2 small flathead screwdrivers. they poped right off, no probs. (DO NOT SPIN THE NEEDLES AROUND, DUHHH). i didnt need to remove the rpm needle, but at the time i didnt know where i was going with this destructive dissassembly.
5. next i removed the face plates from the tach and speedo. 2 small philips head screws hold them in place.
you can now see the functionality of the odometer. i used engine terms to describe the specific parts that they resembled. the "camshaft" is a long rod with many knuckles, or "lobes" if you will, that rotates in a sequence starting from the right side. the "crank pulley" is a gear like piece, shaped like the paddle wheel of a 17th century steam ferry (i know im so creative), that drives the "camshaft" and also the trip odometer indirectly. if you run your finger up or down on this "crank pulley" you can slowly adjust the reading on the odometer 1 mile at a time. one full rotation of the "crank pulley" will add or subtract one mile from the odometer. no, you cannot manually turn the numbered odometer gears, they are locked into place by the "camshaft"; it would be like trying to turnover your engine by putting hydraulic pressure in your belt driven powersteering pump. this brings me to my SUPER AMAZING BILLY-SHOULD-WIN-THE-INGALLS-TORQUE-DAMPER-RAFFLE-AUTOMATICALLY DISCOVERY OF THE DECADE! you can pry the "camshaft" away from the odometer gears to unlock them from their current position . ok so now that youre bursting with joy ill continue to say that the adjustment is a very fine tuning delicate procedure of correctly aligning the "camshaft lobes" with the correct teeth between the odometer gears . GENTLY pry the metal end of the left side of the "camshaft" away from its seat until the lobes are no longer touching the gear teeth (i recommend only do one side of the "camshaft" at a time so that you dont damage it or accidently pop it completely out of place). the numbered gears will now spin freely in place and you can set them at any desired position. when you have chosen your target mileage, with one hand holding the gears in line with each other, gently press the "camshaft" back into its seat making sure the "lobes" interlock with the gear teeth. this may take a couple tries so that the numbers are perfectly level with each other AND facing directly forward and not tilted up or down, as there are many teeth on the gears to choose from. once the target mileage has been set reassembly of the gauge cluster is opposite that of dissassembly.
PLEASE PERFORM THIS ADJUSTMENT AT YOUR OWN RISK!
i will be happy to answer any questions if you PM me, but i am not responsible if you break your cluster. if you want me to adjust your cluster for you, PM me and we can possibly work something out. FYI, odometer "roll back" is illegal in most (if not all) states.
